The Want List  /  005

PiagetCalibre 9P

Everyone tells this story slightly wrong. I did too.

Piaget Calibre 9P

How I got here

I wanted something flat enough to vanish under a cuff.

Every list points at the same 1957 Piaget movement.

Two millimetres.

The round one, in white gold.

The part worth knowing

You will read that the 9P was the thinnest hand-wound movement in the world.

It wasn't. Audemars Piguet were at 1.64 mm in 1938. Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin got there in the fifties.

The 9P is 2 mm. Piaget's own site still doesn't call it the thinnest. Everyone else does it for them.

1.64 mm. 1938.

Calibre 9P. Two millimetres.

So what did it actually do

It made ultra-thin ordinary.

Audemars sold 772 of their 1.64 mm calibre in fifteen years. Piaget built theirs in-house and put it in a catalogue — round, square, rectangular, stone dials from 1963.

The square one is the Protocole, and it is the one I want. The round version is everywhere.

What it really opened up for me is vintage Piaget as a whole. The 9P, the 12P, the old Polo.

Not a record. A product line.

The Protocole, with its engine-turned bezel and dial.

Which one I want

The square. The Protocole, with its engine-turned bezel and dial.

And then everything behind it — this is the watch that made me start looking at vintage Piaget properly.

The square, with a black dial.

The watch

Calibre9P · 1957
Thickness2.00 mm
Diameter20.5 mm — 9 lignes
WindingHand-wound · 18 jewels

Where it sits

What I wantThe Protocole
The round oneToo common
What it opened upVintage Piaget
Plain dials$2–7k

Neither one is an Altiplano.

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